Our trip to Central Europe is primarily centered around spending New Years in Prague with Rawlings’ godfather, Paul Evans, but we decided to extend on either side of this visit, starting in Budapest.

Day 1 // We started walking towards the city center – initially towards a bakery, Artizan, that turned out to be closed for holiday and ending up at a bakery, Bite. We took a cab from here to the Szechnyi baths to soak our weary 😉 travel bones. The baths were fun although Rawls thought a bit “odd”. We enjoyed the outdoor baths – a touch chilly to walk between. The boys enjoyed the very aggressive whirlpool circle in the center of the outdoor baths.

We meandered back to the Mystery Hotel from the baths, walking / exploring on the way back to the hotel. We stopped at City Park for a Wiener schnitzel sandwich “snack” for all to share. Shepherd checked out the local specialty, Langos and we walked over to Heroe’s Square by the Fine Art Museum.

In the afternoon we planned to go to the Light Art Museum (Rawlings choice) but it was at full capacity, so we ended up walking through the city center. Ended up being a perfect point in the day as the sun was setting. We went by the Danube and hoped to see the “Shoes on the Danube bank”— tribute to the Jewish people killed by the Hungarian fascist militia. While there were still candle offerings on the rail, the tribute is under water as the Danube is in a flood state.

Day 2 // Our second day was fun and full on. We started the day touring the Central Market hall and beyond with a Hungarian food tour (thank you Grammy + Poppy for the Christmas gift!). We toured the 3 levels of stalls and tried delicious, garlicky langos. The lunch spot (which was apparently on Bourdain’s Parts Unknown show) featured all the sausages. We wrapped the tour with all the desserts including the first ever gluten free cake on record (Eszterhazy cake made with almond flour) and the winner of the 150th anniversary of Budapest (the Natalis)

Later in the afternoon Rawlings choice came through and we visited the Light art museum. Very interesting set of pieces blending science and technology research, art and cause awareness.

From here we walked across town to the Szimpla Kert, a ruins bar and food tavern area where the boys had more Langos, sampled a chimney cake and discussed that there’s too much second hand smoke exposure in Budapest 

Day 3 // We spent nearly the entire day in and around Buda Castle including the History Museum, the castle museum, walking the castle walls and enjoying the Christmas markets there. The boys had fun all day and never asked to move on.

We walked to the top of Buda Castle – the funicular was out of service and no grumbles when they had to walk up.

The Christmas markets – enjoying a cake ball and a very sweet woman who shared allll the available flavors with the boys

As part of the History Museum, we visited Stephen’s hall – a beautiful space with much of the detail executed in ceramic.

Visiting the Castle museum, this was a gothic chapel from 1342. The sign on exterior suggested you should pay attention to the written and unwritten rules. Rawls very much thought that taking this photo was against the unwritten rules.

Walking the castle walls

Then back across the Danube to the “Pest” side

We walked back downtown at sunset. This is Shepherd’s favorite statue which he dubbed “Ancient Florida man” as it appears alligator wrestling is happening

Then our favorite meal at Turkiz to wrap the night. Ask Shepherd if they “got the right animal” for his dinner

Day 4 // We wandered a bunch more today – heading towards the Jewish quarter in Budapest.

Along the way we visited the opera house and its beautiful ceilings and very pretty Christmas decor.

The Jewish quarter feels somewhat like the Riverside of Budapest- quirky character. We visited the last remaining aspects of the Jewish ghetto from WWII and the last standing part of the enclosing wall. We also visited the Dohany Street Jewish synagogue, the largest in Europe.

Lunch today was back at the caravan food tavern for new options – loved the salad we shared for lunch!

We meandered and shopped a bit afterwards. Rawls found a store entirely dedicated to Rubrics cubes.

Our last stop was the actual Szimpla Kert ruins bar which is next door to the spot we were on Wednesday night. Super interesting space that we cld have spent a lot of time exploring.

And enfin, walking back to our hotel to leave.